Calion

Calion: A tank top

ACS_0106

 

Materials

Purl Soho, Cattail Silk, 1 skein

US 5 circular needle

6 Stitch markers

Scrap yarn or stitch holder

Tapestry needle

Gauge

4”= 23 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch on US 5 needles

Notes

Calion is a cropped, split back tank top with a delicate lace pattern along the back. Worked in silk and weighing less than 100 grams all finished up, this top is wispy as heck and perfect for even the hottest summer days.

The top is worked in one piece, seamlessly, from the top down. You’ll first work the wearer’s front left shoulder, then the right, before joining them to finish the upper front. Then you’ll pick up stitches from the cast on edge to work the left back piece down to the armhole, then repeat for the right back before joining all three pieces to work together down to the hem. Shoulders are shaped with short rows.

Because the lace pattern and increases are completely charted, you’ll want to make sure your row gauge is right on to ensure your armhole is the correct length. The pattern is written in one size. A tighter gauge will create a smaller piece, and a looser gauge will create a larger piece. Working a different gauge would be the simplest way to change the size. To make it several inches larger, cast on an additional 12 stitches and work an extra main chart repeat. Keep in mind that will affect how you work your wraps.

You can access the pattern online here for free, or if you’d like a printable, downloadable version, you can purchase a pretty PDF from my Ravelry shop. 🙂

Measurements and Modifications

Laid out flat, this piece measures about 36” around the bust. However, due to its open back design, it can fit a wide range of bust and waist sizes.

Chickalah Schematic

Pattern

Left Front

Cast on 24 stitches. Purl 1 row.

Row 1 (right side): knit until there are 8 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Row 2 and 4 (wrong side): purl to end.

Row 3: knit to 8 stitches before last wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 5: knit across row, picking up wraps and knitting them together with the stitch.

Row 6: purl all stitches.

Row 7: knit all stitches.

Repeat rows 6 and 7, 12 more times. Then work row 6 one more time. Piece should measure about 3.5” from armhole edge.

Row 33: knit 2, make 1, knit to end.

Row 34: purl all stitches.

Repeat rows 33 and 34, 4 more times. You should have 29 stitches.

Row 43: knit 2, make 1, knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2.

Row 44: purl all stitches.

Repeat rows 43 and 44, 4 more times. You should have 39 stitches. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

Right Front

Cast on 24 stitches. Purl 1 row.

Row 1 (right side): knit all stitches.

Row 2 (wrong side): purl until there are 8 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Row 3: knit to end.

Row 4: purl to 8 stitches before last wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 5: knit to end.

Row 6: purl across row, picking up wraps and purling them together with the stitch.

Row 7: knit all stitches.

Repeat rows 6 and 7, 12 more times. Then work row 6 one more time. Piece should measure about 3.5” from armhole edge.

Row 33: knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2.

Row 34: purl all stitches.

Repeat rows 33 and 34, 4 more times. You should have 29 stitches.

Row 43: knit 2, make 1, knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2.

Row 44: purl all stitches.

Repeat rows 43 and 44, 4 more times. You should have 39 stitches. You will now join the front pieces to work them together.

Front

Row 53: With right sides of right front facing, knit 2, make 1, knit to end of row, cable cast on 14 stitches. With right side of left front facing, knit across piece until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2. You should have 94 stitches.

Row 54: purl all stitches.

Row 55: knit 2, make 1, knit until there are 2 stitches left, make 1, knit 2.

Row 56: purl all stitches.

Repeat rows 55 and 56, 3 more times. You should have 102 stitches. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

Left Back

With the right side of Left Front shoulder facing you, pick up 24 stitches. Purl 1 row.

Row 1 (right side): knit all stitches.

Row 2: purl until there are 8 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Rows 3 and 5: knit to end of row.

Row 4: purl until 8 stitches before wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 6: purl across row, picking up wraps and purling them together with the stitch.

Row 7: knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2.

Row 8: purl 2, make 1, purl to end.

Repeat rows 7 and 8, 4 more times. You should have 34 stitches.

Row 17: Knit to end of row, cable cast on 14 stitches. You should have 48 stitches.

Row 18: knit 7, purl to end of row.

You will now begin working from the charts to create the lace.

Row 19: Work across chart A.1 once (8 stitches), Chart A.2 twice (24 stitches), and chart A.3 once (9 stitches). After finishing Chart A.3, you should have 7 stitches remaining. Place a marker, and knit to end of row.

Row 20: knit 7, slip marker, purl to end of row.

Row 21: Work across Chart A.1 once, Chart A.2 twice, and Chart A.3 once, slip marker, knit to end of row.

Row 22: knit 7, slip marker, purl to end of row.

Repeat rows 21 and 22 until you reach row 61. You should have 58 stitches. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

Right Back

With the right side of right shoulder facing you, beginning at neck edge, pick up 24 stitches. Purl 1 row.

Row 1 (right side): knit until there are 8 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Row 2: purl to end of row.

Row 3: knit until 8 stitches before wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 4: purl to end of row.

Row 5: knit across row, picking up wraps and knitting them together with the stitch.

Row 6: purl to end of row.

Row 7: knit 2, make 1, knit to end of row.

Row 8: purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, purl 2.

Repeat rows 7 and 8, 4 more times. You should have 34 stitches. Do not turn work after row 16.

You will now pick up stitches from the cast on edge of the neck on the left back. With the wrong side of right back and the right side left back facing, pick up 14 stitches from neck line of left back, beginning with the last stitch you cast on on left back and working toward the left armhole. You should have 48 stitches. Turn your work.

Row 17: knit to end of row.

Row 18: purl until there are 7 stitches remaining, place marker, knit 7.

You will now begin working from the charts to create the lace.

Row 19: knit 7, slip marker, work across chart B.1 once (8 stitches), Chart B.2 twice (24 stitches), and Chart B.3 once (9 stitches).

Row 20: purl until there are 7 stitches remaining, slip marker, knit 7.

Repeat rows 19 and 20 until you reach row 61. You should have 58 stitches. Don’t break yarn. You will now work across all pieces to join the back and front pieces.

Body

Row 61 (chart row 43): With right side of right back, work in pattern across all stitches. Cable cast on 7 stitches, place marker, cable cast on 7 stitches. With right side of front facing, knit across all stitches. Cable cast on 7 stitches, place marker, cable cast on 7 stitches. With right side of left back facing, work in pattern across all stitches. You should have 246 stitches.

Row 62: Knit 7, purl to last marker, knit 7.

Row 63: Knit 7, slip marker, work in pattern to next marker, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, work in pattern to next marker, slip marker, knit to end of row. 

Row 64: Knit 7, purl to last marker, knit 7.

Repeat rows 63 and 64 once more. You have now reached the end of Charts A and B, and you’ll begin working from Chart C.

Row 67: knit 7, slip marker, *work across Chart C.1 once (8 stitches), Chart C.2 three times (36 stitches), and Chart C.3 once (9 stitches)*, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, repeat from * to * once, slip marker, knit 7.

Row 68: Knit 7, purl to last marker, knit 7.

Repeat row 67 and 68, until 4 pattern repeats have been worked. If you want to make a longer piece, work more repeats, but keep in mind this will affect your yardage requirements! Bind off loosely.

Finishing

With right side facing and beginning at center back, pick up stitch around neckline. Join to work in the round and knit 1 round. Loosely cast off all stitches.

Weave in all ends. Block well to let the lace shine through!

Lace Charts

Only odd rows are charted. On even rows, purl all stitches.

Chart A (Left Back)

Screen Shot 2019-07-02 at 3.21.23 PM

Chart B (Right Back)

Screen Shot 2019-07-02 at 3.21.44 PM

Chart C (Back)

Screen Shot 2019-07-02 at 3.21.53 PM

 

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