Luxora

Luxora: A racerback

ACS_0035

Materials

Purl Soho, Cattail Silk, 1 skein

US 3, 24” circular needle

US 2, 24” circular needle

2 US 3 double pointed needles

2 Stitch markers

Scrap yarn or stitch holder

Tapestry needle

Gauge

4”= 21 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch on US 3 needles

Notes

Luxora is a racerback crop top that knits up quick. Wear it as an airy camisole or rock it on its own with your favorite high waist bottoms.

Working top down, you’ll basically make three triangles, then join them at the bust to begin working in the round. After casting off, i-cord straps are picked up from the fronts and joined at the back.

There are a couple different increase methods used in this pattern. For the fronts, you can use a simple make 1 increase. Video here. For the back, the instructions say to “knit into stitch X times.” I recommend using the kfb (knit front back) method. There’s a great video about how to that here.

This pattern uses Purl Soho’s Cattail silk yarn. Due to the yarn’s generous yardage, each size can be made with less than one skein. The yarn knits up a little crispy, but relaxes significantly after blocking and wear. Be sure to block your gauge swatch. There are soo many ways to modify this pattern to make it your own. See the last page for notes on a couple different variations.

Measurements and Modifications

There are seven sizes available, accommodating bust sizes 33” to 45” with no ease. For a more fitted top, work one size down or at a slightly smaller gauge.

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4) [5, 6. 7]

Finished Bust: 33 (35, 37, 39) [41, 43, 45]”

luxora-11

Pattern

Left Front

Cast on 5 stitches using the long tail cast on (counts as first row). Knit 1 row.

Row 3 (right side): Knit 2, make 1, knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2.

Row 4: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Repeat these two rows 17 (18, 19, 21) [22, 23, 26] more times. You should have 41 (43, 45, 49)[51, 53, 57] stitches. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

Right Front

Work same as left front.

Back

ACS_0038Cast on 5 stitches using the long tail cast on (counts as first row). Knit 1 row.

Row 3 (right side): knit until there is 1 stitch remaining, knit into last stitch 3 times. 2 stitches increased.

Row 4: knit 3, purl until there are 3 stitches left. Knit 2, knit into last stitch 3 times. 2 stitches increased.

Repeat these two rows 12 (13, 14, 16) [17, 18, 17] times. You should have 57 (61, 65, 73) [77, 81, 77] stitches.

Next odd row: knit until there is 1 stitch remaining, knit into last stitch 4 times. 3 stitches increased.

Next even row: knit 4, purl until there are 4 stitches remaining, knit 3. Knit into last stitch 4 times. 3 stitches increased.

Repeat these two rows 2 (2, 2, 2) [2, 2, 4] more times. You should have 75 (79, 83, 91) [95, 99, 107] stitches. 

Next odd row: knit until there is 1 stitch remaining, knit into last stitch 5 times. 4 stitches increased.

Next even row: knit 5, purl until there are 5 stitches remaining, knit 4. Knit into last stitch 5 times. 4 stitches increased.

You should have 83 (87, 91, 99) [103, 107. 115] stitches. Don’t break yarn. You’ll now work across all 3 pieces to join them.

Body

ACS_0037With knit side of Back piece facing, knit across all stitches, place marker (indicates center of round). With right side of Right Front facing, knit across all stitches. Cable cast on 1 stitch. With right side of Left Front facing, knit across all stitches, place marker (indicates beginning of round). Join to begin working in the round. You should have 166 (174, 182, 198) [206, 214, 230] stitches.

Rounds 1-5: knit all stitches

Round 6: *knit 1, SSK, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, knit 1,* slip marker. Repeat from * to *.

Repeat rounds 1-6, 4 times more. You should have 146 (154, 162, 178) [186, 194, 210] stitches. Work until piece measures 4” from join at underarm.

Next row: slip 1, knit 2 together, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit 2 together, Knit to end. You should have 144 (152, 160, 176)  [188, 192, 208] stitches.

Change to smaller needle and work in 2×2 rib for 4” or desired length. Loosely bind off all stitches.

ACS_0036Straps and Finishing

With right side of Left Front facing, pick up 3 stitches using one of the double pointed needles. Work in i-cord for approximately 9-11 inches.*

Last row: slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over. Break the yarn and pull the strand through the remaining loop to close it off.

Work the Right Front strap to match. Sew the straps to the cast on edge of Back.

Everyone’s preferred length is going to be a bit different! To get the perfect length for you, I recommend doing this:

  1. Try on the piece before working the straps. Adjust it to the position where you’d like it to sit.
  2. Use a tape measure to measure the distance from the Back cast on edge to one of the Front cast on edges. Write down that number.
  3. Subtract 1 or 2 inches from the number you wrote down. That’s how long to work your i-cords. Keep in mind that regardless of the yarn you’re using, they will stretch a bit as you wear the top. If you’re using a stretchy yarn like wool, that will make them stretchier still.

I recommend trying on the top and seeing how it fits before sewing the i-cords to the Back. Weave in your ends and block!

Variations

Wool Sock Yarn

ACS_0097For a more fitted and bra-like top, you can use a stretchy sock yarn to work in a tighter gauge and make a top with a few inches of negative ease.

I used about 300 yards of Madeline Tosh Euro Sock on size 3 needles (ribbing in size 1). My gauge was about 6.5 stitches per inch. I made a size 5, creating a 30” bust to be worn with 4” of negative ease.

Linen Yarn

ACS_0098Working with linen, will create an airy, drape-y summer blouse. I used about 350 yards of Shibui Reed (1.5 skeins) on size 4 needles, getting 6 stitches per inch. Rather than i-cord straps for this one, I made them with a crochet chain stitch.

I worked the instructions for size 5, ending up with a bust about 34” around to be worn with no ease. After joining the pieces, I did not work the decreases but started the lace pattern (4 repeats) about 4” after joining. Before starting the lace, increase 1 stitch after both markers so that you have a multiple of 8 stitches on your needle. 168 (176, 184, 200) [208, 216, 232] stitches. Place another stitch marker in the center of the front and back, so that the work is divided into 4 sections.

The lace follows this pattern:

Round 1: *Knit 1, yarn over, SSK, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, yarn over*. Repeat from * to * three more times.

Round 2 and all even rounds: knit

Round 3: *Knit 2, yarn over, SSK, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, yarn over knit 1*. Repeat from * to * three more times.

Round 5: *Knit 3, yarn over, SSK, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2*. Repeat from * to * three more times.

Round 7: *Knit 1, yarn over, SSK, knit 1, yarn over, SSK, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn over*. Repeat from * to * three more times.

Round 9: *Knit 2, yarn over, SSK, knit 1, yarn over, SSK, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1*. Repeat from * to * three more times.

Round 11: *Knit 3, yarn over, SSK, knit 1, yarn over, SSK, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2*. Repeat from * to * three more times.

This forms the basic pattern of the lace. From here you will continue to add a new line of eyelets every 6th row. Below, you’ll see a chart for size 1 of the pattern. The other sizes are worked in the same way, but there will be more stitches between the eyelets on Round 1, and you will create more eyelet lines before they meet in the center. Note that only the odd rows are charted.

Luxora 1 - Stitch Fiddle