Wolf Bayou is a light, airy, and dreamy as hell tank top. It’s worked seamlessly from the top down. First the front and back pieces are knitted flat to the underarms, then they are joined to work in the round. The neck and shoulder straps are also worked in the round and formed by picking up stitches from cast on edges and using a cable cast on for the straps. Four eyelet increases are worked along the two sides of the bodice (two per side, forming a V shape). To create more pronounced eyelets, you will yarn over twice on the increase rows, then knit into only one of the yarn overs on the following row, increasing 4 stitches. This creates a more defined eyelet that is easy to see.
There are two yarns suggested. Linaza is a sport weight alpaca/linen blend that drapes beautifully. It’s pictured here in the color taupe. Kinu is a lace weight silk. It’s super light weight (a size 1 or 2 will weigh less than 50g!) and is pictured here in violet. You can see that the pattern is quite versatile and could be worked in all kinds of yarns. However, I highly suggest knitting and blocking a swatch before beginning, as both the suggested yarns gauges are quite different pre- and post- blocking.
A note on yarn recommendations for size 2: The pattern calls for 2 skeins of either yarn, but I used almost exactly one skein to make that size. If you frog your swatch and are careful, you also may be able to get away with using only one skein.
This pattern is available free on my blog, or you can purchase a printable PDF from my Ravelry shop.
MEASUREMENTS AND MODIFICATIONS
The pattern comes in three sizes 1 (2, 3).
If you’d like the make the armholes a little longer (or shorter) than suggested, I recommend casting on more (or less) stitches for the straps. If you’d like to make the bodice longer, simply keep on knitting til you reach the desired length. Keep in mind that this will affect your yarn requirements.
Ito, Kinu, 1 (2, 2) skeins
or Plymouth, Linaza, 1 (2, 2)
US 4, 24″ circular needle (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Scrap yarn or stitch holder
Stitch markers, 4
4”= 22 s + 30 rows on US 4, blocked
Cast on 33 (36, 41) stitches using long tail cast on method (counts as first row). Purl 1 row.
Row 3 (right side): knit 2, yarn over, knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, yarn over, knit 2.
Row 4: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2
Repeat Rows 3 & 4, 25 (29, 33) more times. You should have 85 (96,107) stitches. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.
Repeat steps for front, but do not break yarn at the end. You will now knit across both pieces to join them.
Round 0: With right side of back piece facing, *knit across all stitches, place marker, cable cast on 5, place marker*. Then with right side of front piece facing, repeat from * to *. You should have 180 (202, 224) stitches. The last marker you place will indicate the beginning and end of the round. You may want to make it a special color to make it easy to find.
Rounds 1 & 2: knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.
Round 3: *Knit to next marker, slip marker, knit 2, yarn over twice, knit until there are 2 stitches before next marker, yarn over twice, knit 2, slip marker*. Repeat from * to *. 4 stitches increased.
Round 4: Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them and remembering when you come to the yarn overs, to knit only 1 of them and drop the next one. (See notes in the introduction.)
Rounds 5 & 6: knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.
Repeat Rounds 3-6, 14 (16, 21) more times. You should have 240 (270, 308) stitches. Loosely cast off all stitches.
Neck and Straps
With right side of upper back facing, beginning at center of cast on edge, pick up 16 (18, 20) stitches from cast on row. Cable cast on 25 (27, 27) stitches. With right side of upper front facing, pick up 33 (36, 41) stitches from cast on edge. Cable cast on 25 (27, 27) stitches. Pick up 17(18, 21) stitches from other half of cast on row from upper back. Join to work in the round and knit 3 rows. Loosely cast off all stitches.
Weave in all ends. I highly recommend wet blocking to even out your stitches and let the yarn become as light and airy as it wants to be. Holler if you have any questions and share your work with me on Ravelry and Instagram using #samsweaterz. I love sharing my patterns, but I love seeing what you all create with them even more!
Happy knitting ❤