Ouachita

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MATERIALS

    • Garnstudio DROPS Puna, 8 skeins
    • US 7, 24” circular needle
    • US 5, 24” circular needle
    • Stitch markers
    • Tapestry needle
    • Elastic thread
    • Small crochet hook
    • Optional: US 5 and US 7 double pointed needles

 

 

GAUGE

4”= 14 stitches and 28 rows in lace pattern on US 7 needles

NOTES

Ouachita is a loose, lacy pullover. Made in breathable alpaca and worked up in a simple lace stitch, this piece is perfect for layering over button-downs, dresses, or your other knits. It’s soft and warm without being stuffy or itchy. The pattern uses an easy lace repeat with a garter detail at the shoulder and 1×1 ribbing at the edges.

A drop sleeve sweater worked top-down. you’ll cast on at the shoulder, work the upper back, then pick up stitches from the cast on edge to create the front. After working the upper sections of the back and front separately, they are joined and worked in the round down to the hem. The sleeves are also worked top-down, starting at the shoulder and working down to the cuff. The pattern is written so that the sleeve is worked flat then sewn onto the sweater. However, if you hate seaming, then you can easily pick up the sleeves from the armhole and work them in the round on double pointed needles. As the alpaca is very soft and not so springy, elastic is crocheted into the wrong side of the cuff to add stability and elasticity. If you are using alpaca for the sweater, I highly recommend not skipping this part.

The pattern is available for free here, or you can download a printable PDF from my Ravelry shop.

STITCH PATTERNS & TECHNIQUES

Lace Pattern (multiple of 6 stitches and 4 rows)

Instructions for working flat

Row 1 (right side): knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over

Rows 2 and 4: purl all stitches

Row 3: yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3

Instructions for working in the round

Round 1: knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over

Rounds 2 and 4: knit all stitches

Round 3: yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3

SK2PO: slip 1 knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over

Make 1: pick up the strand between the next stitch and the one you just worked, place it on the left needle so that it is twisted and will not create a hole, knit it

Make 1 purlwise: this is worked just like a make 1, but instead of knitting the stitch through the back loop, you will purl it through the back loop.

MEASUREMENTS AND MODIFICATIONS

Basically just a box, the pattern is about 26” wide and could accommodate a range of sizes, depending on the amount of ease you want. It’s pictured here with about 16” of positive ease. If you’d like the make the piece larger (or smaller), I’d recommend adding (or subtracting) a multiple of 6 stitches from the cast on edge of the back, and pick up that same number of stitches when you get to the front. If you want to make the neck wider, just add an extra 3 increase rows (this equates to 6 stitches) when you’re shaping the neck. You can make the armholes deeper by working the back and front longer than 7” before joining them. Remember that adding increase rows to the neck will mean you need to pick up extra stitches when working the neckband, and making a deeper armhole will mean you need to cast on (or pick up) additional stitches for the sleeve. Keeping all your stitch additions (or subtractions) in multiples of 6 will keep the lace pattern in order.
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PATTERN

RIGHT BACK SHOULDER

Cast on 40 stitches using the long tail method (counts as first row). Knit 1 row. You will now begin working from the chart to shape the back neck.

Row 3 (right side): knit 2, make 1, knit to end of row

Row 4: knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2

Row 5: knit 4, make 1, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) 6 times, knit 2

Row 6: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1 purlwise, knit 2

You should have 44 stitches. Break the yarn and place these stitches on a spare needle.

LEFT BACK SHOULDER

Cast on 40 stitches using the long tail method (counts as first row). Knit 1 row. You will now begin working from the chart to shape the back neck.

Row 3 (right side): knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2

Row 4: knit 2, make 1, knit to end of row

Row 5: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) 6 times, knit until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2

Row 6: knit 2, make 1 purlwise, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2

Don’t break yarn. You should have 44 stitches. You will now join the pieces to create the back.

JOIN BACK

You will now work across the left back and right back shoulders to join them.

Row 7: With the right side of the left back shoulder facing you, knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 6 stitches remaining, knit 6. Using the cable cast on method, cast on 12 stitches. Then with the right side of the right back shoulder facing you, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2. You should have 100 stitches.

Row 8: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 9: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 10: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 11: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 12: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Repeat rows 9 to 12, 9 more times. Piece should measure 7”. Break yarn and place stitches on a spare needle.

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LEFT FRONT

With right side of back facing and beginning at neck edge, pick up 40 stitches from left back shoulder (counts as first row). Knit 3 rows.

Row 5: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 6: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 7: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 8: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Repeat rows 5 to 8, 3 more times.

Row 21: knit 2, make 1, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 22: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 23: knit 2, make 1, knit 1, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 24: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 25: knit 2, make 1, knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 26: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 27: knit 2, make 1, knit 3, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 28: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Break yarn. You should have 44 stitches. Place stitches on a spare needle.

RIGHT FRONT

With right side of back facing and beginning at armhole edge, pick up 40 stitches from right back shoulder (counts as first row). Knit 3 rows.

Row 5: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 6: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 7: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 8: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Repeat rows 5 to 8, 3 more times.

Row 21: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, make 1, knit 2.

Row 22: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 23: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 3 stitches remaining, knit 1, make 1, knit 2.

Row 24: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 25: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 4 stitches remaining, knit 2, make 1, knit 2.

Row 26: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 27: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 5 stitches remaining, knit 3, make 1, knit 2.

Row 28: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

You should have 44 stitches. Don’t break yarn, you will now work across both fronts to join them.

JOIN FRONT

You will now work across the right front and left front shoulders to join them.

Row 29: With the right side of the right front shoulder facing you, knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) to end of piece. Using the cable cast on method, cast on 12 stitches. Then with the right side of the left front shoulder facing you, knit 6, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2. You should have 100 stitches.

Row 30: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 31: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 32: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 33: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 34: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 35: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 36: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Repeat rows 33 to 36, 3 more times. Piece should measure 7”. Don’t break yarn.

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BODY

You will now work across the front and back pieces to join them.

Row 49: With right side of front facing, knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2. Cable cast on 2 stitches, placing a marker between them. The with right side of back piece facing you, knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2. Cable cast on 2 stitches, placing a marker between them to indicate the beginning of the round.  

Round 0: To continue, begin working across the right front to join all the pieces, and knit all stitches, slipping the first marker, and stopping at the second marker (the one that indicated the beginning of the round.

Round 1: (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) to end of round.

Round 2: knit all stitches

Round 3: (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) to end of round.

Round 4: knit all stitches.

Repeat rounds 1-4 until piece measures about 12” from the armhole (where you cast on 2 stitches and joined the front and the back).

Switch to size 5 needle. Then begin working in knit 1, purl 1 rib for 1”. Loosely cast off all stitches.

SLEEVES (make two)

Cast on 64 stitches.* Knit 3 rows.

*If you prefer, you can instead pick up 64 stitches and work in the round. This means you won’t have to seam or join the sleeves. 🙂

Row 1: knit 2, (yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over, knit 3) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 2: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 3: knit 2, (knit 3, yarn over, SK2PO, yarn over) until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Row 4: knit 2, purl until there are 2 stitches remaining, knit 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 down to the cuff, while at the same time, decreasing 16th then every 8th row, 9 times total. You should have 46 stitches. When piece measures 11”, switch to size 5 needle and begin working in knit 1, purl 1 rib for 1”. Loosely cast off or use a stretchy bind off method.

NECKBAND

With the right side of work facing and beginning at center back, with size 5 needle pick up 84 stitches around the neckline. Work in knit 1, purl 1 rib for 1” then cast off loosely, or use a stretchy bind off method.

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FINISH

If you worked the sleeves flat, join them to the body of sweater, lining up the center of the sleeve with the point where the front and back shoulders meet. Then sew the sleeves closed.

Now add the elastic to the cuff. There are lots of ways to make this happen. Check out this link for helpful tutorials. Below is the method I used.

Flip the sweater inside out. With the wrong side of the cuff facing you, use a small crochet hook and elastic thread to add the elastic to the cuff. Begin on the first row of ribbing, and use the crochet hook to crochet into the right leg of the knit stitches. Continue all the way around the sleeve. Then cut the elastic, tie off the crochet, and secure the elastic with a knot. Repeat this process for the last row of ribbing on the sleeve. Then work these steps again onto the other sleeve.

Weave in your ends, and don’t forget to block to get that lace glowing. I recommend wet blocking for this pattern and material. Because it’s so loose and airy, it only took a few hours to dry and it was so worth it!

Share your project with me on Ravelry or Instagram using #samsweaterz. I get a huge thrill from seeing all your stuff!

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