Pattern: Linen Top

 

 

 

Another summer pattern! This one made with some dreamy, crunchy linen. Having only dabbled in linen in years past,  I am determined to master it this year. Knitting with it is wayyy different than the single ply merino I tend to use, but the results are just so freaking perfect for summer pieces that it is worth it. I usually prefer stainless steel needles, but definitely recommend using bamboo or driftwood for working with this yarn to keep it from sliding off your needles. I also recommend tightly winding it into a ball by hand. Every time I would try to ball it up on my winder, it would fly off across the room. Here’s a handy video if you need help with that. I use the method that begins at 3:58.

The top is worked seamlessly, top down. First, the upper back is worked flat, using short rows to shape the shoulders. Then, stitches are picked up at the shoulders to form the front pieces. The front pieces are joined and worked back and forth, before being joined with the back to begin working in the round.

The lace panel is 49 stitches wide and worked over 6 rows. The feather and fan style of the lace curves naturally, creating the swooped neckline that continues down to the lower edge. Keep in mind that the instructions for the lace panel change slightly when you begin working in the round.

The top measures about 43” at the bust. I designed it for myself to wear with 8″ of positive ease. However, it could fit anywhere from a 34-42” bust, depending on how much ease you want. If you’d like to make the top smaller or larger, I’d recommend knitting at a slightly smaller or larger gauge. Be aware that if you do this, you may want to adjust the armhole length to suit your needs.

 

 

 

MATERIALS

Purl Soho, Field Linen, 2 skeins

24” US 5 circular needle

Tapestry needle

4 stitch markers

GAUGE

4” = 20 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch on US 5 needles

LACE PANEL:

Worked over 49 stitches and 6 rows

Working Flat

Row 1 (right side) : knit all stitches

Row 2 (wrong side): knit all stitches

Row 3: Knit 2 together 8 times, (yo, knit 1) 8 times, knit 1, (knit 1, yo) 8 times, SKPO 8 times.

Row 4: purl all stitches

Row 5: knit all stitches

Row 6: knit all stitches

Working in the Round

Row 1: knit all stitches

Row 2: purl all stitches

Row 3: k2tog 8 times, (yo, knit 1) 8 times, knit 1, (knit 1, yo) 8 times, SKPO 8 times.

Row 4: knit 1 row

Row 5: knit all stitches

Row 6: purl all stitches

PATTERN

BACK

Cast on 109 stitches using the long tail cast on.

Row 1 (wrong side) : purl all stitches

Row 2 (right side): knit until there are 6 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Row 3: purl until there are 6 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Row 4: knit to 6 stitches before the wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 5: purl to 6 stitches before the wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Repeat rows 4 and 5, 3 more times.

Row 12: knit across all stitches, picking up the wraps and working them together with a stitch as you come across them.

Row 13: purl across all stitches, picking up the wraps and working them together with a stitch as you come across them.

Now that you’ve shaped the shoulders, work even in stockinette stitch until the piece measures about 8”, ending with a wrong side row. For me this was 44 rows. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

LEFT FRONT

Starting at neck edge of wearer’s left shoulder, pick up 32 stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side) : purl all stitches

Row 2 (right side): knit until there are 6 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Row 3: purl to the end of row

Row 4: knit to 6 stitches before the wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 5: purl to the end of row

Repeat rows 4 and 5, 2 more times.

Row 10: knit across all stitches, picking up the wraps and working them together with a stitch as you come across them.

Then work 3 rows even in stockinette stitch. Cast on 45 stitches. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

RIGHT FRONT

Starting at arm edge of wearer’s right shoulder, pick up 32 stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side) : purl all stitches

Row 2 (right side): knit all stitches

Row 3: purl until there are 6 stitches remaining. Wrap and turn.

Row 4: knit to the end of row

Row 5: purl to 6 stitches before wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Repeat rows 4 and 5, 2 more times.

Row 10: knit to the end of the row

Row 11: purl across all stitches, picking up the wraps and working them together with a stitch as you come across them.

Work 2 rows even in stockinette stitch. Do not break yarn. You will now join the two front pieces.

JOIN FRONTS

With right side of right front facing, knit 30 stitches, place marker, knit 2. With right side of left front facing, knit across the 45 cast on stitches, knit 2, place marker, knit 30. You have now joined the pieces. Begin working the lace panel over the center 49 stitches. Note that you will use the working flat pattern instructions.

Work evenly with sides in stockinette and the center in the lace pattern, until the piece measures the same as the back, ending with a wrong side row. You will now join the front and back pieces to work the body in the round. Note that you will use the working in the round lace pattern instructions.

BODY

With right side of front pieces facing, work in pattern across the front, place marker to indicate where the front ends and back begins. Then with the right side of the back piece facing, knit across the back and place a marker to indicate the start of the round. Join the pieces to work in the round.

Work about 2” in pattern as set, then begin decreasing to shape the waist as follows:

Decrease row: Slip marker, knit 1, SKPO, work until there are 3 stitches before the 3rd marker (the one between the front and back pieces), k2tog, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, SKPO, knit until there are 3 stitches before the next marker, knit 2 together, knit 1.

Repeat this decrease row every 8th row, 8 more times.

Work until the piece measures about 10.5” from the front/back join, ending on row 6 of the lace pattern.

Knit 1 row and purl 1 row, 2 times. Bind off all stitches loosely.

FINISHING

Weave in ends your ends. The lace will be very lumpy at this point. Block with a hot steamy iron or wet block to even out the lace. When you’re blocking, keep in mind that the lace panel will swoop downwards quite a bit.

Finally share your work with me on Ravelry or Instagram and use #samsweaterz. Happy knitting ❤ Baiiiiiiiiiiii

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And here’s a handy, printable PDF for ya 🙂

Linen Top by Samantha Stadter

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One thought on “Pattern: Linen Top

  1. Reblogged this on Frazier's Funny Farm and commented:
    So I have been searching on Ravelry.com for pretty things to make my daughter-in-law and came across this free knitting pattern by Bitchcraft. It is cute as can be and I cannot wait to get the perfect yarn and start on it.

    Like

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